“Time magazine called it "the perfect steak". American Vogue's
exacting food writer Jeffrey Steingarten said it was "probably the
greatest steak I've ever eaten". They were referring to an enormous
chuletón taken from the central rib section of a 16-year-old Rubia Gallega ox,
dry-aged for 90 days, and served in the cellar dining room of a rural bodega
named El Capricho, near León in north-west Spain.” The Guardian.
Neil and I recently read a
book called “Steak” by Mark Schatzker, a guy who travelled the world looking
for the best steak. It was a fascinating read and got us thinking about trying
a few different steaks on our travels. And so it was that we set out on a 300km
journey from O’ Caralilino (no,no-one would ever have heard of this place
either ) along the A6 towards Madrid to eat the perfect steak. El Capricho is
in a tiny town called Jaminez de Jamuz and you would never find the place if
you didn’t read about it. You enter through the kitchen, where the owner, Chef Gordon
shows you all the meat and suggests which piece to try. You then walk down into
a cave/cellar to be seated in the restaurant. At 2.30pm the place was packed –
the Spanish eat lunch much later than the French, where you sit down at noon
and are being kicked out by two.
Chef Gordon,suggested a
suitable 1995 Rioja and two starters; cured beef, like Jamon Iberico but made
from beef and thinly sliced ox tounge – all delicious.
Our 1,5kg piece of steak was
grilled medium rare and sliced up at the table by Gordon himself. It was indeed
a 16 year old Rubia Gallega, dry aged (at exactly zero degrees) for ninety days
and cooked to exactly sixty degrees. Although this is really rare, especially
to Neil’s usual taste, it was perfect - juicy and meaty and absolutely tender
but not running with insipid red liquid. We ate and ate but could not finish it
all. The waitress even came and told us to hurry up because it is best enjoyed
warm and we gathered there would be no re – heating and no doggy bags here;
just the perfect steak! It really was the best steak I have ever, ever eaten
and well worth the trip!
If you want to read more
search for “Where’s the Best Beef? “ by Lydia Itoi, Time Magazine (December 5th
2007)
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