Zambia Safari 4 : South Luangwe

Zambia is a very poor, sub-saharan African country. It is enjoying some economic growth off a very low base but outside Lusaka it's very undeveloped. In bigger towns you may be able to pay for fuel with a credit card or find an ATM but it's advisable to carry enough cash in USD to cover your expenses.  And you may well need your jerrycan of extra fuel. You'll need to be pretty much self sufficient with regard to food and drinking water.  Distances between National Parks are far, road travel is slow and it's obviously safer to tour in a group.

We left Kafue via Mumbwa, heading towards Lusaka. There are no highways or ringroads, so punching though the city slows you down. 

We drove all day to reach Chimwemwe Lodge in Petuake. It's a very long way,  but they do have cold beer and steak and chips in the striplit dining room. And oddly the Rythymic Gymnastics World Champs on the TV. No soccer?

After some shopping for veggies in the market, we head off to Wildlife Camp in South Luangwe. There's no camping and only  one lodge inside the national park, so most guests stay in surrounding lodges. Wildlife Camp is very good. We had a wonderful riverside spot and there's a great pool and bar. The main lodge is about 500m along the river and their bar has WiFi. If campers want WiFi or lodgers want a swim, the barmen radio each other to check there are no ellies or lions along the path and then you're free to walk. Ellies and hippos do come through the camp, so you need to be careful when heading to the ablutions at night.

Entrance into South Luangwe is USD 75 per day for 2 adults and a car, which is pretty expensive. It is a most beautiful park with lovely rivers and lots of beautiful trees. The birding was amazing and we saw quite a bit of game but no cats. Road conditions can be tough and off the main arterials you're not likely to see another car. Once again, like in Kafue, it feels like you have an entire national park to yourself. And that's so rare on this crowded, crowded planet. There are no facilities inside the park, like ablutions or picnic sites or restaurants and the bush is pristine. 

Exhale! The hippo in the water with the bird on his back, chomps water lilies and I am happy. No Yoga needed!