Homer 2022 : Lucca and Vinci

Monday 23 and Tuesday 24 May

Lucca is another one of my favourite towns in Italy. On our first trip here over 20 years ago, we stayed on a wine farm outside town. We mostly remember trying every grappa they had and watching Italian game shows on TV.  Still, we always return.

It's one of the Tuscan fortified towns that has a medieval wall that is still intact. Lucca isn't super touristy. There are lots of tourists but they don't outnumber the locals. 

We love wandering from piazza to piazza, stopping for a drink and people-watching or poking our heads into the odd church. 

Stephen and Vivienne joined us here. They have rented a campervan for 5 weeks to travel around Italy with us.  

It's a 2km walk from the campsite into town, a good warm-up for all the walking we will be doing over the next few months. 

En route to Florence, we stopped in the hilltown Vinci, where Leonardo's from. You can visit a number of museums dedicated to his life, his art and his inventions. 

Homer 2022 : Italian Riviera

Saturday 21 and Sunday 22 May

Rapallo is a less touristy town on the Italian Riviera, more popular with Italians. We strolled along the palm lined promenade for drinks with a view at Enoteca Il Castello.

Shunning the hotels' buffet-style seafood emporiums that line the beach road, we ate at La Trattoria for a twist on the traditional.

Pansotti with Salsa di Nocci and pork with a chocolate-orange sauce and apple marmalade.

It's a short bus ride to Santa Margarita Lugura, a bigger, more affluent Riviera town with grand old hotels spread along the coast.

And quaint back streets; good for a wander.

We had lunch at Capocotta. This area is famous for foccacia - plain or filled. This crispy foccacia - Focaccia di Recco -  filled with Stracchino cheese was amazing.

Trofie is a local Lugurian pasta usually served with pesto.

We took a ferry to Portofino with loads of tour group passengers.It's a beautiful little town but there's no authenticity.

Just groups of tourists following a flag bearing guide around like sheep. And 5 superyachts parked in the marina apparently as accommodation for Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Whatevers' wedding guests.

I'm keeping up with the Kardasians - I had an over-priced coffee at a waterfront cafe with a view.  

These boats along with accompanying photographers and drone cameras too -according to People magazine -  are to ferry wedding guests around. I think they're just there for Insta- opportunities. 

Homer 2022 : Barolo and Alba

Monday 16 May to Friday 20 May 2022

Heading off the Autostrada towards Alba in Piedmont is exciting. It's been 5 years since our last visit to my favoutite area in all of Italy.  

Up amongst the hilly vineyards is wonderful, little Camping Sole Langhe. We went straight out to Trattoria Buon Padre 100m down the road. Maria had been making Tajarin, angel's hair pasta in this restaurant since 1967.

Sometimes all you need is a van with a view. 

And  great food... we went back to Buon Padre again the next evening. 

Barolo wines have enjoyed increased popularity world-wide; bringing so much growth and  affluence to the area. The tourists aren't back in great numbers yet, though.

We went back to Ristorante Pedaggera, a fabulous place we discovered with Tracey in 2007 and have been back several times since.

They aren't running their full Piedmontese kitchen anymore, just serving pasta and sandwiches to locals and cyclists and bikers taking a rest at the top of the hill. Bepe still served us though and the gnocchi was to die for. 

The campsite in Alba is walking distance into town.

Alba is the truffle capital of Italy. You can buy fresh black truffle all year round but the prized white truffle is only available in September and October.

It's also home to Ferraro Rocher, choclatiers and makers of Nutella and Tic-Tac. 

The Slowfood Movement started here..local produce, freshly cooked...Osteria dell Arco was just the place for dinner.

Sit at a street cafe or wine bar - people watching and enjoy Aperativo, Italian sundowners. Buy a drink and the snacks are free.

Homer 2022: Modena

Modena - Pavarotti's from here. And Enzo Ferrari. And this couple who just happen to be strolling through my pic but look like they're posing...And it's one of Italy's great foodie cities. The home of Balsamic Vinegar and made more famous of late by superchef Massimo Botura. His restaurant Osteria Fransescana was Best Restaurant in the World in 2018. No chance of getting in unless you book months in advance. Nevermind, we'll go where the locals go.

Archers Bar for a couple of Lambruscos.

Trattoria Pomposa for dinner - with no English on the menu!

We loved the Budino di Parmigiano, "parmesan pudding" starter. The Lasagne Verde and Tortellini in Brodo we had are local specialities too.

Lambrusco is a sparkling red wine from just outside Modena. We like the dry, low alcohol Grasparossa. We visited La Cantina Settecani in Castelvetro.

Now we have three packs of wine under our table in Homer. 

And we went to the Lamborghini Museum in Sant'Agata. 

We started traveling in Homer in 2008. We've done a clean out and apart from outdated food and clothes that don't fit, you'd be surprised how many items have become obsolete in our lives over the last 15 years. SatNavs, MP3 players, digital cameras and e-readers...

Some things we got rid of..pocket calculator, post- it notes, guide books, post cards, stamps and envelopes, highlighter pens and our trusty campsite directory. The end of an era..

Home 2022 : Lake Garda and Valpollicella

Friday 13 and Saturday 14 May

Big red Amarone wines come from grapes grown in the area around Valpolicella outside Verona.

We drove the wine route but we only went tasting at one winery; Stefano Accordini with the highest vineyards in Valpolicella. Ask Neil for a masterclass on apassimento style wines and all things related. The staff at the winery asked him if he's an oenologist but it did get us a tasting of the 2015 Reserva.

Lake Garda is the largest inland body of water in Italy. It's a hugely popular summer destination for mostly German tourists and local Italians.

There are loads of family resorts and campsites along it's shores. I chose the town of Bardolino because it's surrounded by vineyards. Bardolino wines, made with the same grape varietals as in Valpolicella tend to be "cheap and cheerful".

Serenella Campsite is a 20 minute walk along the lake into town.

From here we caught a ferry across to Sirmione. Even in May, the place was heaving with day trippers.

We found the least touristy restaurant, La Piccola where all the local hotel staff popped in for a sandwich or a drink after their shift.

Back in Bardolino we whiled away the evening drinking coffee, then spritz then local wine at Cafe Centrale, with good Wifi and great people watching.