On Friday 19th February we drove up to Pai via an amazing mountain pass. They have upgraded the road since we were last here but there are still 2800 turns to get there! Most travellers head up to Pai in overcrowded minivans - you had better hope you get a driver who has had enough sleep! Bikers like to do the trip too and some even do it on small scooters rented in Chaing Mai! We stayed in a great little guesthouse called Baan Suan Rim Pai. It's been 12 years since we have been here and we don't recognise a thing!It has grown.. and changed! Down by the river the guesthouses are just as rustic as ever and Pai has somehow managed to retain it's aura as a backpacker hangout..just!
Ten years ago a Thai film called "Love in Pai" was shot here and since then hundreds of thousands of Thai fans have come here for romantic getaways and honeymoons. Then two years ago, a Chinese film, Lost In Thailand caused Pai to explode as a Chinese tourist destination. It's hilarious to see young Chinese tourists rushing around from site to site, having photos taken. The best place to eat is on the streets at the night market. Then grab a seat at Yukko Beer Bar for imported craft beer and a great people watching opportunity. The only live music is at Yellow Submarine Bar - the music is not very good but it's fun to watch the western backpackers get very drunk on cheap drinks, hook up and stagger back to their fan-only riverside bungalows! There are lots of coffee bars all over and Maya Burger Queen is the place to get lunch. We also tried a local Thai place where you can get a bowl of "Spicy Chicken Liver Noodle Soup" for 25 Baht.
On Sunday we did another great scenic drive up to Chaing Dao and stayed in Malees Guesthouse. This area is touted for it's birdwatching. We climbed up to the Tham Pha Cave Monastery and we did see a few birds in the area, but mostly from our hut balcony.The next day we did another great scenic drive to Mae Saloeng via Tha Thon. There were lots of rice paddies, fruit orchards and coffee plantations along the way. Mae Saloeng is a town of Chinese KWT refugees and is known for it's tea plantations.We stayed at the Baan Ruam Cha Resort for about 700 Baht and went out to eat the local Yunnanese cuisine.We headed up to the border town Mai Sai near Myanmar and followed the Mehkong River east through the Golden Triangle area. Sop Ruak is an awful tourist trap that touts itself as the centre of the Golden Triangle. To be avoided.. We bypassed Chaing Rai and spent the night in Phayao instead. There are a few local hotels along the lake and we were the only foreign tourists in town. We had dinner at a restaurant on the lake and then enjoyed a live band at an open air club filled with students. Here if you are not a beer drinker, you drink brandy or local whisky, which you have to buy by the bottle.
Ten years ago a Thai film called "Love in Pai" was shot here and since then hundreds of thousands of Thai fans have come here for romantic getaways and honeymoons. Then two years ago, a Chinese film, Lost In Thailand caused Pai to explode as a Chinese tourist destination. It's hilarious to see young Chinese tourists rushing around from site to site, having photos taken. The best place to eat is on the streets at the night market. Then grab a seat at Yukko Beer Bar for imported craft beer and a great people watching opportunity. The only live music is at Yellow Submarine Bar - the music is not very good but it's fun to watch the western backpackers get very drunk on cheap drinks, hook up and stagger back to their fan-only riverside bungalows! There are lots of coffee bars all over and Maya Burger Queen is the place to get lunch. We also tried a local Thai place where you can get a bowl of "Spicy Chicken Liver Noodle Soup" for 25 Baht.
On Sunday we did another great scenic drive up to Chaing Dao and stayed in Malees Guesthouse. This area is touted for it's birdwatching. We climbed up to the Tham Pha Cave Monastery and we did see a few birds in the area, but mostly from our hut balcony.The next day we did another great scenic drive to Mae Saloeng via Tha Thon. There were lots of rice paddies, fruit orchards and coffee plantations along the way. Mae Saloeng is a town of Chinese KWT refugees and is known for it's tea plantations.We stayed at the Baan Ruam Cha Resort for about 700 Baht and went out to eat the local Yunnanese cuisine.We headed up to the border town Mai Sai near Myanmar and followed the Mehkong River east through the Golden Triangle area. Sop Ruak is an awful tourist trap that touts itself as the centre of the Golden Triangle. To be avoided.. We bypassed Chaing Rai and spent the night in Phayao instead. There are a few local hotels along the lake and we were the only foreign tourists in town. We had dinner at a restaurant on the lake and then enjoyed a live band at an open air club filled with students. Here if you are not a beer drinker, you drink brandy or local whisky, which you have to buy by the bottle.
Pai
Yellow Submarine
Tham Pha Plong
Mae Saloeng
Phayao
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