Thursday 30 June 2016

USA Road trip 5: More Music

On Monday 16 May we drove from Dallas to Hot Springs, Arkansas. In Texarkana,where the state line runs through the middle of town, we had one of the best all round BBQs so far. Naaman's (BBQ 10) started out as a food truck but now they are housed in an old gas station just off the highway. They still have the pit going in the truck parked outside. Hot Springs,which still has Victorian style bathhouses, hotels and salons lining the main street is rather down at heel these days. We probably would have enjoyed it a little more during the gangster days of prohibition. We did find a bar with live music on a Monday evening, at least. The next day it was on to Little Rock, a quiet, generic US city with a small nightlife area developed next to the river. We had lunch the next day at The Whole Hog (BBQ 11) The owners here like to enter BBQ competitions so the place is full of trophys; and the food was good!  That night we saw Dave Mathews in concert.

Thursday 19th May was another "drive all day" trip back down to New Orleans. This time we were able to spend the days roaming around the streets of the French Quarter and the evenings bar hopping on Bourbon St. We enjoyed the historic restaurants Napoleons and Antiones. On Saturday, Stephen and Vivienne flew in for the weekend. Bourbon street is very busy on weekend nights but there are so many bars and bands to choose from. Just buy a drink and pull up a stool or hit the dance floor."Don't Stop Believing" by Journey is the ultimate cover band anthem and the favourite drunken patron sing-along song of all time. I bet you are now humming it, right! We enjoyed a Sunday brunch of Loaded Bloody Marys and swing music at Bamboula's on Frenchmen St, followed by walking in the Garden District and more fun at the Rock N Bowl. It's been years since any of us played 10 pin bowling and it's all the more fun with a live band and dance floor too!





On Tuesday 24 May we drove to Tupelo MS, birthplace of Elvis Presley. We stopped for lunch at Squealers (BBQ 12) in Meridian,MS. That night the only live music in Tupelo was at Steele's Dive Bar. By 10pm we were the only customers left enjoying the music of Michael Thomas.This was the 33rd night in a row we had seen live music and would go on to 41 consecutive nights of live music before a 2 night break to visit family.There are so many talented musicians out there and most we have seen so far are just eeking out a living playing for tips in bars and restaurants. We really enjoy these encounters with all sorts of local people and in the South everyone is so friendly.
From Tupelo we drove the Natchez Trace Parkway to Nashville via Muscle Shoals, Sheffield, Florence and Tuscumbria - "The Shoals" where so much amazing music has been recorded over the last 50 or 60 years. In 1969 the Rolling Stones famously holed up here for a few days and recorded "Wild Horses" It is not very touristy but you can drive by some old landmarks like Fame Studios.

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