Monday 9 October 2017

Venice is for lovers..of Art


We drive to Venice and another of our favourite campsites, Camping Serinissima. It's still super hot and we are tortured by the sight of a new, sparkling pool just metres from our vans but not yet open because they are finishing the paving and laying lawn. Armed with our 72 hour travel cards, we take the bus to Piazzale de Roma and hop on the vaparetto ( water bus ) to Rialto Bridge. After a wander around the streets and a drink or 2, we make it over to Cannaregio, the quieter 'island' of main Venice and far less touristy, for dinner in the garden courtyard at Trattoria Misericordia. The next day, being Saturday, we are up early and make it in to town to The Irish Pub ( very original name ) near Ca d' Oro to watch rugby. NZ vs The British Lions. By coincidence Dion, Alex and Luc are also in Venice and we meet them in the pub.
The big reason for coming to Venice is the Bienale, the Art Olympics so to speak. In the Giardini section different countries each have their own Pavilions showing off their art. Most of these are massive installations, some good, so wierd, some uninspiring.
In the late afternoon we hot foot it back to The Irish Pub for more rugby; SA vs France. Another win for the Bokke! After the game we have a great dinner at Alex and Dion's apartment.
The next day we are up and off again, this time to see the new Damian Hirst exhibition, Treasures of the Wreck of the Unbelievable, spread over 2 venues. The exhibition took 10 years and 50 million pounds to create and it is truly unbelievable. In shear size and scope, in complexity, in concept. What is real and what is not? What is true and what is imagined? In the afternoon we trek to the Arsenale section of the Bienale and we find very little to rave about. Perhaps it's not fair to see this after the Hirst spectacular but we are supposedly seeing the best contemporary art in the world? If you hang wool from the ceiling or pile old clothes on the floor, I'm sorry but you haven't tried hard enough! And the South African exhibit? A grainy video of a guy lying in a Zoo Lake rowing boat? Really? Venice is always beautiful at dusk, especially if you are sitting at a street cafe with a Campari Spritz watching the world go by. Venice is incredibly touristy these days but if you stay away from St.Marco as much as possible it's great. On Monday morning we head to the island of Murano by boat and visit our best kept secret for lunch; Osteria LaPerla. Local food, local diners, local prices.We manage to squeeze in more art at David Lachapelle's new exhibition before a final party at Il Paradiso Perduto; more local food and an Italian Jazz Band.


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