Mozambique - Tofo Beach, Xai Xai

Hands down the best beaches in the world. Overall. The coastline is nearly 3000km long. The Indian Ocean is warm. The weather is mostly hot. The marine life is awesome. The beaches are cleaner than most in the world and not overcrowded.

We crossed into Moz from Kruger at the Giriyondo Border Post. It was quiet and the process was simple. The road through the Mozambican Trans Limpopo Reserve is greatly improved but 4x4 is still required. This area of Mozambique is dry and the villagers are very poor.

Xai Xai

Our overnight stop was in Xai Xai.  Praia do Xai Xai is not recommended. Run down and depressing with no happy beach vibe and a few dreary looking bars none of which were even open. We stayed in a nice villa in the Eco Estate but I think a far better overnight stop is Belene. ( See later blog) The beach is nevertheless beautiful.

Tofo Beach

It's a pleasant half day drive up to Inhambane and Tofo Beach the next day. You can get fresh veggies at many roadside stalls but the best selection is at the Mercado Central in Inhambane. There are much better grocery stores at Babalaza just outside Tofo. Yum Yum or Go Fresh. There is a new butchery in the Go Fresh complex called Toro de Carne. She also sells frozen LM prawns which we recommend over the offerings from the local guys, which weren't that fresh. The garage has ATMs where you can easily draw Meticals but SA Rands are accepted everywhere albeit at a less favourable rate.

Tofo Beach is heaven on earth. Not at all busy in October and November. The town centre has a great vibe with a good choice of  bars and restaurants. We stayed in Tofinho, the beach just south of the main bay. Thanks to Daryn and Lou who are always so happy to let us stay at their house. Most places in Tofo have their quirks and we think Casa Lou is one of the nicest houses in town. I suggest Airbnb to find houses and make sure it's an easy walk ( not more than 2 minutes ) to the beach. You don't want to have to get in the car all the time.

The newish Hotel Tofo Mar is well located. Turtle Cove is chilled but too far out. 

The highlight in Tofo is Scuba Diving and I would recommend Diversity Scuba. With wonderful unspoilt reefs and the chance  to dive with  Giant Manta  Rays. We did an Ocean Safari with Peri Peri Divers and if you can handle the beach launch and rubber duck trip on the swell, swimming with a whaleshark will be one of the best things you ever do. I just jumped into the deep blue ocean and he was right there. I followed him for a few minutes until he swam down but he was back up and swimming right under the boat again. By the third jump into the sea lots of other boats and divers had arrived and we were pretty tired.

We can also recommend attending the evening talks by the Mega Marine Fauna Organisation.

Facing East, you need to be up early to see the sunrise over the ocean but there are plenty of places to watch the sunset over the palm fringed wetlands. I recommend Tofo Tofo. You must have at least 1 RnR when you visit the beaches of southern Moz. Rum and Rasberry. Local Tipo Tinto and red Sparletta that stains your lips and tongue bright pink.

 Head a few Kms north on the sand road to Mango Beach with a view of the ocean and the sunset from the top of the dune. Great cocktails and good food too. They also have chalets if you fancy being out of the bustle of Tofo.

For dinner we had a great meal at Casa de Comer. The best place by far at the moment is the Japanese restaurant Sumi. They also do live music on Saturday nights.

We had to say a sad good-bye to half our group but we stayed for 7 nights. That's the way to enjoy beach life. We took a trip up to Barra which was another dissapointment. Many lodges are in ruins. Palm Grove is open and the beach is beautiful there.