Swaziland

It's been over 20 years since we were last in Swaziland. What surprised us most is how popular it is with foreign tourists.

On Friday 5th October,  we met Danie and John in Piet Retief, entered Swaziland at Lavumisa  and went to Royal Jozini for 2 nights. We loved Ekulutheni lodge and got to chill eventhough the game viewing was sparse. 

We spent a night at Hlane in Bubesi cottages. Book number 6 if you can, it's at the end of the access road. We had fantastic rhino sitings at Main Camp and loved the visiting Crested Guineafowl on our verandah.

We had lunch at Malandela's Restaurant in Malkerns. The King of Swaziland - in full regalia and with bodyguards - was dining at the next table. This cool spot should be on every Swaziland itinerary. 

For the next 2 nights we stayed at Mlilwane. I would recommend booking into the beehive huts here or better still, a night at O'Reilleys Hotel (original colonial farmhouse) but we stayed at Sondzela, the backpacker's lodge. Basic rooms in another converted farmhouse with the very grumpy Getrude in charge. It turned out to be a great experience; sitting around the giant boma fire each night on tree stumps for chairs, chatting to other travellers over bottles of wine and whiskey. There are a few influential colonial families left in Swaziland. The O'Reilley clan were instrumental in getting Swaziland to proclaim National Parks and Mlilwane was their farm. It's well stocked with game but you don't get that bushveld feel. The bird watching is excellent, you can hike and there are 4x4 trails up to the top of the surrounding hills.

On our last night in Swaziland we stayed at Malalotja, with it's misty cliffs and dramatic scenery. This is also a hikers delight but the cottages are a little shabby these days.