Colombia 4 : Minca, Santa Marta, Tayrona

10 February We drove 5 hours along the coast to Santa Marta. The port city of Barranquilla looked dirty and dangerous and as we drove along the causeway across the mangrove the environment just deteriorated. Conditions in the fishing communities along the way from there reminded me of Africa. We did see a sloth crossing the road!

At Santa Marta  you drive inland up the  Serra Nevada mountain pass to Minca, a small town in the foothills of the mountains. Arriving on a Sunday we had to contend with the traffic of day trippers from Santa Marta on the tiny dirt roads to get to our lodge, Minca Ecohabs. The basic bungalows are on stilts in the forest, almost like treehouses. Minca is very hot and humid at this time of year and the lodge, built on the side of a mountain, has lots and lots of stairs. Minca is on the backpacker trail, mostly hostels, cheap bars and restaurants filled with dreadlocked yoga drop-outs and gapyear travellers. We love The Lazy Cat for cheap cocktails, great salads and good WiFi. 

11 February Colombia has more birds, almost 2000 species, than any other single country and Minca and Santa Marta have about 30 endemics. Nature conservation and  ecotourism is not well developed in Colombia but we did a great bird walk with a local expert arranged by the hotel. We loved the toucans, parrots and motmots. From the Ecohabs dining room you can see about 10 species of hummingbird! This is a borrowed pic but we did see 40 or 50 Keel Billed Toucans around Minca!

12 February Santa Marta is the scruffy, non-touristy cousin to Cartegena. Some beautiful old buildings around Simon Bolivar Parque, an ugly beach and a cluster of hostels, clubs and bars. We loved our stay at the restored Hotel Casa Carolina, with the swimming pool in an inner courtyard and a pretty good restaurant, Eli's.

13 February Lonely Planet raves about the beach and diving at Taganga. We thought the place was awful, so we didn't stay long. We continued down the coast to Tayrona National Park, which was closed for a month for beach rehabilitation and tribal ceremonies. Luckily we were staying at the Los Naranjos Estate located right on the most awesome wild beach at the river mouth. Finally a gorgeous stretch of Colombian Caribbean coastline! Finca Barlovento Cabin, designed by architect Simon Velez in the 70s, is built on the boulders right on the beach. Lying in bed you just hear waves crashing below you all night.

14 February It's a five hour drive back to Cartegena and this time we are staying in the amazing Legends Sofitel Santa Clara Hotel. We pull up outside to unload our bags and Neil realises he's left his backpack back at Los Naranjos!!! I call the booking agent in Bogota who speaks English and she arranges a taxi to drive the bag to us in Cartegena for 200 USD. We have a rather nervous evening drinking cocktails at KGB bar and in the middle of our valentine's dinner at Sofitel, the bag arrives!