Thursday 27 June 2019

Zambia Safari 3 : Kafue National Park

Monday 15 April
Once into Zambia it's only just over an hour to Livingstone. Take the T1 to Kalomo where you branch off in a Northwesterly direction to Dumdumwezi , the Southern gate of Kafue National Park.Through town the road was so bad we wondered how we'd make it but it improved and in fact long stretches of road are currently being graded and resurfaced. There's no stop / go control on the bits of road under construction so you just squeeze past the massive grader while it ploughs huge piles of gravel into your path. 

At the gate you need to pay all the park fees upfront in USD cash. It's not cheap, about 60USD per day, all in for 2 adults, a car and a caravan.

It's a fairly good dirt road north inside the park to headquarters and we were only held up for a bit by slightly agitated elephants in our path.
The last 29kms are very sandy 4x4 only tracks. We arrived at Hippo Bay Campsite to find the bathrooms under construction. The campsite gets flooded in the rainy season and when the water level drops maintenance is required before the camp opens to visitors. Although the park received very poor rain this last year, much needed late rain had slowed down building progress. We camped at the sister property Mokamoya Lodge on the lawns overlooking the lake. The lodge was also under construction, due to reopen on 1 June. 

16 and 17 April
What a stunning place! Puku and Lechwe and plenty of birds at the water. Game drives along the lake were stunning. We saw plenty of hippos, elephants and buffalo and we did find the lions we heard roaring at night. 



Beware, away from the water and especially in long grass there are tsetse flies. Lots and lots of the evil little buggers. In these areas you have to do game drives with your car windows shut and carry a giant can of Doom and a flyswatter in the car in case one gets in! 
They cling to your car -  as if they have suckers on their feet - and if you get out before they've dissapated you'll be dancing around like a swirling dervish in a mosh pit to avoid being bitten.

It rained a few times -  one night, too hard for a braai - so I made tuna and cheese sandwiches inside the caravan and ventured out with an umbrella to deliver them to Danie and John in their tent, " like Mary Poppins " according to John.

18,19, 20 April
A few hours north, we spent the next 3 nights at Casabushi Camp, set on the Kafue River. The owners, Andy and Libby are the most wonderful hosts and their camp is awesome. We had the best site, a secluded riverside spot away from the other Easter weekend campers. Casabushi wins a prize for the best campsite bush bathroom in Africa!


We had a few wonderful river cruises but game drives were rather unsuccessful due to thick bush and long grass. Some tracks were closed.  Due to late rains driving through the notoriously sticky blackcotton clay was not advisable.


By now the 4 of us are so enjoying our camping. John makes us coffee every morning and does all the dishes. Danie and I share most of the cooking and Neil relaxes; well he does pour wine and make fires. And comes up with dessert ideas!

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