Monday 19 August 2019

Zambia Safari 5: Lower Zambezi and the journey home

Friday 26 April
We left South Luangwe and headed back to Chimwemwe Lodge.
Saturday 27 April
The next day we left early, heading for Mvuu Lodge on the Zambezi River.
We chose the route via Mpasi and as the road deterioated quickly.
Suddenly like angels, a British chap and his wife popped out of the grass from the only house for miles around to stop us in our tracks and tell us the road over the mountain had been washed away and is  impossible to get through even without towing trailers. They offered us tea but now we had a long detour via Lusaka. After U-turning both vehicles on a single rocky track on the side of a slope!
We trekked through Lusaka and made it to Chirundu in the dark.
By some fluke, with hardly any cell phone reception, I found us a lodge to stop at 10kms out of Chirundu.
Never has a burger and a beer been so welcome. Advice for next time. Overnight in Lusaka instead of Petuake. I don't think the campsite is great but you can get fuel, good supermarkets and restaurants.
Sunday 28 April
Early the next day we got to Mvuu and Ellie Campsite, the best campsite in the lodge. It's a wonderful place with views over the Zambezi River to Mana Pools on the opposite bank.

 In the evening we did a fabulous boat trip with the most awesome sightings of hippos and elephants. And lots and lots of birds.
Belly Flopping Hippos


How to waterski in crocodile infested waters!




Monday 29 April
We decided to drive into Lower Zambezi National Park.
Tracks for Africa wasn't very helpful so we got a bit lost. Eventually we found a ranger from a nearby lodge who said that forging the river would be the only way in. Luckily he went ahead so we could follow his line. There's no checking the depth beforehand in these crocodile infested waters. Danie had no time to contemplate the crossing with the rugged ranger looking on from the opposite bank. We'd hardly got going on the other side when a restless elephant filled the road, just metres ahead of us. Danie nearly repeated the river crossing in reverse! The park fees are hefty; USD 75 per car and 2 adults but it's truly beautiful and reminiscent of Mana on the opposite bank. Game viewing was sparse; no cats.


Tuesday 30 April
An early start and back into Chirundu for fuel. It's a longish detour back towards Lusaka before picking up the M1 to Livingstone. We camped overnight at Camp Nkwazi. This is a wonderful campsite on the Zambezi a few kilometres out of Livingstone.  They also have cabins, a restaurant, a pool and a wonderful deck. This is a great place for an  overnight stop and if you're coming in Zambia they can arrange help for you getting though the Kazangula border.
Wednesday 1 May
The border is a breeze when you're leaving Zambia and the run down to Nata was easy. We made it to Elephant Sands by early afternoon and really enjoyed the pool and literally hundreds of visiting ellies.

Thursday 2 May
Elephant Sands to the Stockport Border and we were back in South Africa.
Friday 3 May
Taaibos to the farm for a major unpack.

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