Delhi

Arriving late in Delhi, our driver took us to to Old Delhi and dropped us off near the Old Mosque. We were met by a porter from our hotel, who dissappeared down a narrow alley with our bags on a trolley while we had to half run, half walk to keep up with him; passing people and dogs asleep in doorways, street food sellers and lots of trash.

Haveli Dharapura is the most awesome historic hotel in the heart of Old Delhi. A haven to retreat to for a cold beer or a nap in the airconditioned room when your crazy exploration of the warren of streetlife and markets and heaving humanity and heat that is Old Delhi gets too much. We visited the Red Fort and the Jami Masjid and spent hours traipsing through the streets and markets. The chilli aroma in the air in the spice market is so intense it causes your eyes to water and spates of coughing.

The Lakhori restaurant in the hotel is one of Delhi's best and we even splashed out on an overpriced bottle of Indian red wine.