Gorillas Jan 2020: Chimpanzee Tracking

13 January

After lunch at Bush Lodge we drove to Isunga Lodge in Kibale National Park. Just when we thought our accommodations couldn't get better, we were welcomed at beautiful Isunga by owner Gerard, 3 dogs and a tree full of Village Weaver birds. We chose a rest over the village tour. The food was really good at Isunga too.

14 January

Another early start and after breakfast we were off to Kibale National Park for our Chimpanzee tracking. Our guide was the delightful Jessica. She's been working at Kibale for 10 years and her knowledge is great.

The walking here is easy compared to Bwindi. After about 15 minutes we found the chimpanzees. They were hanging out in the canopy about 15 - 20m above us, eating fruit.

A few of the females were on heat so we watched the courting and flirting. Chimpanzees, unlike gorillas practise confused paternity. She mates with up to 20 of the males in the troop so that none of them know who the father is and everyone raises the young as their own. At 11am, when it got too hot at the top of the trees, they started descending in ones and twos and spreading out a bit on the forest floor to wait for the others.

We had great sightings for about half a hour with various chaps just hanging around. At times they'd yell to each other and when everyone was ready they moved off towards the water.

Humans share 98.6% of our DNA with Chimpanzees, our closest relatives. It was a privilege to see them in their natural habitat and tourism provides revenue to keep the conservation efforts going.

15 January

Our first chance to sleep in and enjoy breakfast at 8am. Isunga does the best smashed avo and poached eggs I have ever tasted. And I've tried them in many places on our planet! It's probably due in part to the fresh and locally grown food you get in Uganda.

We had a long drive back to Kigali.

We had an early supper at Chez Lando and then it was off to the airport. Our flight departed at 10.30pm, which meant arrival in Johannesburg at 2.30am. Another sleepless night but oh, so worth it!

Gorillas Jan 2020: Queen Elizabeth National Park

12 January

Another early start and we headed off to Queen Elizabeth National Park. Rain forest gave way to Savannah as we headed north and once we entered the park we saw elephant and buffalo and herds of Defassa waterbuck and Cops gazelle.

The park is not fenced and villages and human settlements are dotted around inside park borders. We got to Bush Lodge by lunchtime. It's a stunning tented camp on the banks of the Kazinga Channel.

After lunch we did a boat cruise. We saw herds of elephants and buffalo and lots of hippos. The birding was good. We saw hundreds of pied kingfishers; they are more common than sparrows and more than 20 malachite kingfishers too.

In the evening we drove to the salt marshes where locals still make salt like they did in the 1700s. 

On our return through the park we had a great sighting of hyena.

Dinner and a few drinks around a campfire round off a great day.

13 January

Early the next morning we did another game drive. This time we had to take a park guide who insisted Sam roar around looking for the lions while he jabbered on his phone trying to locate them and we did eventually find them. We are all seasoned game-viewers, so he was confused to find us unimpressed by his shenanigans.

The equator runs through the park so you can stand with 1 foot in the northern and the other in the southern hemisphere here.

Gorillas Jan 2020: Our Gorilla Tracking Experience

11January

We were up early and having breakfast at 6.30am. We arrived at Rushaga Gate by 7.30 and after a short briefing all the tourists were divided into groups.

Uganda only issues 100 tracking permits per day. Rushaga is one of 3 gates into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest with access to 5 habituated gorilla families. Each guided group can take a maximum of 8 tourists. Our group of 5 were joined by Ann and Carlos.  I had pressed Sam to get us into a group visiting a nearby gorilla family. What a bonus!

Overnight trackers follow the gorillas to see where they "nest" for the night, so they know where the families are.  After a short drive we plundered into the thick bush. Guides and porters accompanied us; 2 ahead of us hacking a path through the jungle with pangas and 4 or 5 giving us a hand or a push from behind as we made our way up the muddy, rocky impenetrable hillside.

After just 25 minutes we reached the Mishaya gorilla family. 1 silverback, 2 females with babies and various others totalling 11. At first they were up in the trees, just hanging out and eating. Beware you don't get right underneath; they pee like a rain shower.

And then, thundering and crashing but amazingly agile the silverback came swinging and loping down onto the ground. He sat down about 3m away and partially turned his back on us, avoiding any eye contact but staying close.

After a few minutes a female joined him. I was seated on the ground less than 2m from her.

After about 10 minutes he moved off followed more or less by the whole group and we hacked our way downhill a bit more until we were close again. The smaller ones were in the trees above us and one or two moved past or came to check us out.

A large female with her baby settled about 2m from us, turning away as the silverback had done. She stayed for 15 minutes or more while the little one clambered all over his mum. His coordination wasn't too good and when he fell into her lap she would lovingly cradle him in her arms, trying to calm him down until he wriggled away again.

When she moved on we walked a little further to watch another guy digging out a dead tree stump.

Our hour up, we scrambled all the way back through the forest to the road. What an amazing encounter. 

We were back at the lodge in time for lunch. 

After a rest and a massage we went out in the car a short way for a bird walk.

Around 5pm we saw other groups of tourists returning from their trek. At the lodge that evening we chatted to people who had to trek 3 hours to find their gorilla family. I'm not sure I would have made it. There's a 95% chance of seeing gorillas with a maximum 5 hour trek or a 50% refund. Thanks Sam for your experienced intervention; our gorilla experience was awesome. 

Gorillas Jan 2020: Rwanda and Uganda

9 January

We arrived in Joburg from KZN at 6pm.

After just a few hours of packing in the dark due to load shedding we were heading to OR Tambo International for a midnight check in and a scheduled departure of 3.10am. 

10 January

Here's our happy group at 3am. Neil and I, Denise, Tracey and John.The plane was delayed in Joburg by an hour due to fog in Kigali and then after circling in a holding pattern for 45 minutes above Kigali, we finally landed safely.

Sam, our guide was waiting for us and after a temporarily mislaid suitcase was recovered, we set off. Rwanda is neat, clean, safe and organised; the Switzerland of Africa.  Farming dominates the picturesque countryside and the towns along the way were bustling with trade and activity. Sweet potatoes are grown at lower altitudes and "Irish" potatoes higher up so there's a constant swop using bicycles and motorbikes to move the "sweet" up and the "Irish" down.

We had lunch at Hotel Muhabura, near Volcanoes National Park and crossed the border into Uganda at Cyanika. 

Uganda is noticeably less clean and poorer but the scenery is as beautiful. It's lush and green and farming dominates here too. The most plentiful cash crop is bananas and at higher altitudes there are larger, more commercial tea estates.

Of course, coffee from Rwanda and Uganda is world class and on our return to Kigali we visited Q coffee to taste and buy some of the country's best.

We arrived at Rushaga Gorilla Lodge at about 5pm. It's up in the hills and shrouded in mist. Individual cabins with views over the forest and lots of steps. We really felt the altitude hiking up to dinner!

In order to preserve the Gorilla habitat in Bwindi, the local Pigmy tribes have been relocated to the edges of the forest. The community receives 20% of the income derived from tourists. They came to sing and dance at the lodge that evening.

Gorillas Jan 2020: 10 tips for a great Gorilla Trip

Here are 10 tips for a great Gorilla Safari.



1.Sam, the best guide.

Going to see the gorillas in the wild has been something we've wanted to do for many years. Thomas and Monica recommended Sam, a private guide based in Rwanda. Sam will arrange the tour for you including lodges, tracking permits and transport. 

2. Uganda is better value.

We opted for trekking in Uganda because a single permit for a day of gorilla tracking costs USD600 in Uganda and USD1500 in Rwanda.

3. Rwandair ex Jhb.

We flew into Rwanda though because Kigali is closer to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest than Entebbe. 

4. Visa on arrival.

The East African Visa covers both countries, costs USD100 and is available on arrival. 

5. Sam, the driver.

You can self drive in both countries preferably with a 4x4 vehicle, especially in the rainy seasons. Neil did enjoy being driven though and Sam's local knowledge made our trip just that much more amazing.

6. Go in the dry season.

January and June are the driest months but you can still expect rain in any season. 

7.Don't skip the chimpanzees. 

Many organised trips just focus on the gorillas but we had an awesome chimpanzee trek as well. Chimpanzee tracking permits are USD150 per person. 

8. Take malaria prophylaxis and get vaccinated, especially for rabies and yellow fever.

9. USD in cash.

Bring enough hard currency. Hotels may take credit card but out in the bush the card machines didn't always work.

10. Bring a couple of bottles.

Wine is expensive and choice limited.

We were only away 6 days but there is a lot more to do in Rwanda and Uganda if you want a longer trip.

Southbroom

What an awesome two weeks on the KZN South Coast. Southbroom is the best town on the South Coast. There aren't that many houses with direct access to the beach and the few on Park Drive are the best! We loved being able to pop onto the beach anytime and enjoyed lots of great swims in the sea! 

New Year's Eve..Roaring 20's Party to usher in a new decade...

Homemade Pasta Party!

Tommy and Mandy's Wedding Anniversary

Lots of awesome braais!

What a lovely time we had with family and friends...