Gorillas Jan 2020: Rwanda and Uganda

9 January

We arrived in Joburg from KZN at 6pm.

After just a few hours of packing in the dark due to load shedding we were heading to OR Tambo International for a midnight check in and a scheduled departure of 3.10am. 

10 January

Here's our happy group at 3am. Neil and I, Denise, Tracey and John.The plane was delayed in Joburg by an hour due to fog in Kigali and then after circling in a holding pattern for 45 minutes above Kigali, we finally landed safely.

Sam, our guide was waiting for us and after a temporarily mislaid suitcase was recovered, we set off. Rwanda is neat, clean, safe and organised; the Switzerland of Africa.  Farming dominates the picturesque countryside and the towns along the way were bustling with trade and activity. Sweet potatoes are grown at lower altitudes and "Irish" potatoes higher up so there's a constant swop using bicycles and motorbikes to move the "sweet" up and the "Irish" down.

We had lunch at Hotel Muhabura, near Volcanoes National Park and crossed the border into Uganda at Cyanika. 

Uganda is noticeably less clean and poorer but the scenery is as beautiful. It's lush and green and farming dominates here too. The most plentiful cash crop is bananas and at higher altitudes there are larger, more commercial tea estates.

Of course, coffee from Rwanda and Uganda is world class and on our return to Kigali we visited Q coffee to taste and buy some of the country's best.

We arrived at Rushaga Gorilla Lodge at about 5pm. It's up in the hills and shrouded in mist. Individual cabins with views over the forest and lots of steps. We really felt the altitude hiking up to dinner!

In order to preserve the Gorilla habitat in Bwindi, the local Pigmy tribes have been relocated to the edges of the forest. The community receives 20% of the income derived from tourists. They came to sing and dance at the lodge that evening.